Your First Set of Gear: A Buyer's Guide                                                Pg 1

What you need to know, from head to toe, to get the gear that's right for you.  

For a new diver, buying gear is the final step, the act that says "I'm committed to really
enjoying diving." But if you're newly certified, how are you supposed to know what to buy?

Relax. Between our advice and your instructor's help, we'll have you outfitted in no time. It's
helpful to think of buying gear in two phases: first, the basic stuff you need for class;
second, the major pieces of life support--regulator, BC and dive computer--that you're
allowed to purchase once you've got a C-card. Let's start with the basics.

The Test Team

For the past nine years, Rodale's ScubaLab, an independent testing facility located on
Catalina Island, Calif., has carried out the scuba industry's only objective, scientific
evaluations of scuba equipment. The reason:

You can read ads and catalogs, talk to other divers or sales personnel, read unqualified
reports in other dive publications or on internet newsgroups and message boards. But
none of these will provide you any objective comparative test results. That's why we test--so
you can have specific and detailed factual data on which to base intelligent buying
decisions of life-support equipment.
Phase One: The Basics

Mask

The one-pane oval mask of "Sea Hunt" and those old Bond films is practically a relic. In its
place is a variety of styles for a world of faces. Your job: Choose the one right for yours.

What it Does - The mask creates an air space in front of your eyes that allows them to focus
under water. The nose pocket allows you to equalize the air pressure in your mask as you
go deeper.

What to Look For - A good watertight fit. Our ScubaLab experts have come up with this
six-step plan for foolproof mask fitting:

1. Look up at the ceiling and place the mask
on your face without using the strap. It should rest
evenly with no gaps.

2. Place a regulator or snorkel mouthpiece in
your mouth. Does the mask still feel comfortable?
Any gaps yet?

3. Look forward. Place the mask on your face
without using the strap and gently inhale
through your nose. The mask should seal easily
on your face. Caution: A strong inhale will close minor leak areas and invalidate this test.

4. Repeat the sniff test with a mouthpiece in place.

5. If the mask is still in the running, adjust the strap and put it on your face. Make sure the
nose pocket doesn't touch your nose and that the skirt feels comfortable on your upper lip.

6. Put the regulator mouthpiece in one more time to make sure you can easily reach the
nose pocket to equalize your ears.

Any mask that passes this test is a potential keeper. You'll find a whole range of options on
masks, including side, top and bottom panes for a wider field of vision. Some also have
purge valves for venting any water that leaks in, and others have quick strap adjustments.
These options (and a range of color schemes) are a matter of personal preference--just
make sure the mask you choose fits right.

Cost - From $25 to $150.

Our Advice - Clear or light-colored mask skirts let more light in and are generally more
comfortable for new divers.  

Snorkel

It seems simple enough: a curved tube that lets you breathe while floating face-down on
the surface. Yet, as you look at the giant wall of snorkels at your local dive store, you'll see
an array of options and features to choose from. Don't worry. Stay focused on the basics.

What It Does - As a diver, you primarily use a snorkel to conserve air in your tank when on
the water's surface.

What to Look For - Comfort. You want a mouthpiece that feels good in your mouth and
breathes dry and easy. The problem is, most attempts to keep snorkels dry also make
them bulkier and harder to breathe through. The snorkel for you is one with a good
compromise between ease of breathing and dry comfort. Remember, the bigger a snorkel
is, the more drag it creates in the water. Also important: how the snorkel attaches to your
mask. Look for a durable, yet simple and easy-to-operate attachment.

Cost - From $15 to $75.

Our Advice - If you don't plan on doing a lot of snorkeling, this is the one piece of gear you
can skimp on. Get a simple, basic model and be done with it.

Fins

Fish don't have legs for the simple reason that fins are the best way to move through water.
So if you're going to play in the fish's territory, you need a good set of flippers too.

What They Do - Fins translate power from the large leg muscles into efficient movement
through water, which is 800 times denser than air.

What to Look For - Comfort and efficiency. When trying on fins, look for a snug fit that
doesn't pinch your toes or bind the arches of your feet. If you can't wiggle your toes, the fins
are too small.

Efficiency of fins is largely determined by their size, stiffness and design. Divers with strong
leg and hip muscles can efficiently use a bigger, stiffer fin. Smaller divers or less
conditioned divers will be more comfortable with smaller, more flexible fins. Finally, make
sure buckles and straps are easy to use.

Cost - $65 to $200.

Our Advice - Don't skimp on fins. Choosing the right pair is important to prevent muscle
fatigue and cramping. Good fins will enhance your enjoyment of diving; bad ones can ruin
it. Full-Foot or Open-Heel Fins?

Full-foot fins don't require dive booties and are best suited mainly for warm waters.

The straps of open-heel fins can be adjusted for the different booties you may wear or for
different family members and children as they grow.

Open-heel fins require less effort to put on, especially if a pull tab is added to the strap.

The dive booties required with open-heel fins also provide foot protection and comfort while
diving and walking.

Exposure Protection Suits

Form-fitting exposure suits are usually made of foam neoprene rubber (wetsuits) or
spandex-like materials (skins), sometimes with a fleece lining.

What They Do - Exposure suits insulate you against the cooling effect of water, which can
rob your body of heat 25 times faster than air. The thickness and type of exposure
protection you need depends on dive conditions. Simple Lycra suits provide little thermal
insulation, but do help protect against scrapes and stings.

What to Look For - Fit and comfort. Exposure suits should fit snugly without restricting
movement or breathing. Reject any suit that's too loose, however. Gaps at the arm, leg,
crotch and neck allow water to circulate and defeat the suit's ability to prevent heat loss.

Cost - Wetsuits and skins range from $70 to $650. Dry suits can cost from $650 to $2,800.

Our Advice - As long as a wetsuit fits correctly, it will do the job. If you're going the budget
route, your choices will usually be limited to basic models. Bright colors and graphics aren't
necessary but do make you more visible to other divers.Exposure Suit Comfort Zones

Water Temp
75-85F - 1/16" (1.6mm) neoprene, Lycra, Polartec
70-85F - 1/8" (3mm) neoprene
65-75F - 3/16" (5mm) neoprene
50-70F - 1/4" (6.5mm) neoprene
35-65F - 3/8" (9.5mm) neoprene, dry suitOnce you're a newly minted diver, the anxiety you
had about buying gear will likely be replaced with a rush of excitement--a desire to max out
the plastic or convert the Roth IRA into a heap of the latest and greatest in scuba gear.

Fine. Having your own gear is essential to enjoy this sport fully and to maximize your
comfort and safety. Just remember that your experience with equipment is limited. You've
got to study the field and understand what you want--and need--out of each piece of gear.
Phase Two: Life-Support Equipment

BCs
The BC is the most complex piece of dive equipment you'll own and one of the most
important. So choose carefully based on the style of diving you'll be doing most.

What It Does - What doesn't it do? It holds your gear in place, lets you carry a tank with
minimal effort, floats you at the surface and allows you to achieve neutral buoyancy at any
depth.

What to Look For - Correct size and fit. Before you try on BCs, slip into the exposure suit
you'll wear most often. Look for a BC that fits snugly but doesn't squeeze you when inflated.
The acid test: inflate the BC until the overflow valve vents. The BC should not restrict your
breathing. While you've got the BC on, test all valves for accessibility and ease of use, then
make sure the adjustments, straps and pockets are easy to reach and use.

Pay particular attention to the inflator hose. Is it easy to reach and extend over your head?
Make sure there's a clear distinction between the inflate and deflate buttons and that you
can operate them easily with one hand.

Cost - $300 to $750.

Our Advice - This is an important piece of equipment that you can expect to use for many
years. Don't skimp; go for quality. Test as many different models as you can in real diving
situations before buying. Rent them if you have to.How Much BC Lift Do you Need?

Tropical Diving (with little or no wetsuit protection) - 12 to 24 pounds
Recreational Diving (with a full wetsuit or dry suit) - 20 to 40 pounds
Technical Diving (or diving under other demanding conditions) - 40 to 80 pounds

Regulators
The good news: Among major-label regulators--the kind sold in dive stores--there is no
junk. Regulators have been perfected to the point that even budget regulators can offer high
performance. However, you must do your homework before buying this vital piece of gear.
We can help: RSD's ScubaLab has tested more than 300 regulators in thousands of
breathing machine tests.

What It Does - Converts the high-pressure air in your tank to ambient pressure so you can
breathe it. A regulator must also deliver air to other places, such as your BC inflator and
alternate second stage.

What to Look For - High performance. The best regulators can deliver a high volume of air
at depth, under heavy exertion even at low tank pressures. Some regulators also have
diver-controlled knobs and switches to aid this process, so it's important to understand the
controls and how they work.

Comfort. Look for a comfortable mouthpiece and have your local dive store select hoses of
the right length for you.

Try as many regulators as you can in real-world diving situations. Breathing on a regulator
in a dive store tells you nothing about how it will perform under water.

Cost - From $225 to $1,600.

Our Advice - You've got to do your homework to find the best regulator available for your
budget. Talk to dive store personnel, experienced divers and most of all, read ScubaLab's
objective, scientific tests and ratings.
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