Your First Set of Gear: A Buyer's Guide Pg 2
Computers
Nobody enjoys working the dive tables, but they're an
invaluable tool for safe diving. Dive computers are an
even better tool for the same reason a laptop is better
than a slide rule.
What They Do - By constantly monitoring depth and
bottom time, dive computers automatically recalculate
your no-decompression status, giving you longer dive
times while still keeping you within a safe envelope of
no-decompression time. Computers can also monitor
your ascent rate and tank pressure, tell you when it's safe to fly, log your dives and much
more. That's why dive computers are almost as common as depth gauges these days.
What to Look For - User-friendliness. The most feature-packed dive computer does you no
good if you can't easily and quickly access the basic information you need during a dive:
depth, time, decompression status and tank pressure. Some models have both numeric
and graphic displays for at-a-glance information.
Mounting options are an important feature to consider and let you position computers on
your wrist, gauge console, hoses or attach them to BCs.
Some computers are conservative in their calculations, automatically building in safety
margins; others take you to the edge of decompression and trust you to build in your own
safety margins. Only RSD publishes a chart ranking the relative conservatism of dive
computers on the market today.
Before you buy, ask to see the owner's manual and check it out. Complete and
easy-to-understand instructions are important, especially on feature-packed machines.
Cost - $300 to $1,300.
Our Advice - Begin with an honest evaluation of your diving needs--do you plan to use
mixed gases someday to do decompression diving? Study the features of different
computers and choose the one that offers the mix of features you need at the best price.
Where Should You Buy Gear?
Scuba equipment can be purchased in dive stores, at other retail outlets, by mail order or
as used equipment from private parties. There are distinct advantages and disadvantages
to each.
Private party. Buying used gear from a private party may be the cheapest possible way to
go, but provides absolutely no guarantees. Unless you are extremely knowledgeable or an
equipment technician, you will not know if a regulator, for example, can even be serviced.
You will also not have any performance data. The seller's statement that the regulator
"breathes fine" and your breathing on it out of the water are both meaningless. We
recommend not buying used life-support equipment from private parties.
Nondive store retail outlets. Sporting goods and discount stores may have scuba gear for
sale. Some of these stores actually have scuba departments and should be considered
dive stores. However, most are simply retail outlets and cannot provide the service, support
and expertise that a dive store can. Other than price, there is no reason to buy at these
nondive store outlets. And even price may not be an advantage since name-brand gear can
often be purchased at dive stores at discount prices.
Mail order. Catalog buying is a popular and useful way to shop, particularly when some
products are not available locally or may be purchased through a catalog for significantly
less money (including shipping and handling charges).
But buying scuba gear through the mail is not like buying a sweater from a clothing catalog.
In particular, our concerns are these:
Diver life-support products should not be sold to unqualified buyers.
2 Dive gear should not be sold when operating incorrectly.
Gear should not be sold to a diver without regard to proper fit and function.
Little service or support is available by mail order, and gear that is not purchased locally
may not be able to be serviced locally and may have no warranty.
If cost is your compelling selection criterion, we suggest consulting RSD's "Best Buy" lists
for those products that offer the best performance for the price. The least expensive is not
necessarily the best buy.
Dive Stores. Retail dive stores have been the focal point of local dive support since
recreational diving became popular. Your local dive store can provide instruction, dive
travel, local dives, inspection and repair services, compressed air, rental equipment,
equipment advice and the opportunity to look at, feel, compare and test equipment before
purchase. In addition, the store can back up products immediately if necessary. Personal
contact is also an important part of a dive store's value. In short, a dive store is in a better
position than a mail-order dealer to provide the service and support you need and should
expect.
How A Wetsuit Works
A wetsuit keeps you warm in two ways:
Keeping Water Out. Any water that gets inside the suit is going to leak out again. When the
water is inside, it absorbs some of your body heat. When it leaves, it takes that heat with it.
So the first thing a wetsuit has to do is keep the cold ocean from flushing through it. A good
fit, one that feels equally snug everywhere, is critical, so the space the ocean wants to use
to flow along your skin is as small as possible.
Providing Insulation Against Heat Loss. A little science here: Solids and liquids conduct
heat well; gases do not. Air, for example, is about 20 times less conductive than water. As a
practical matter, good insulation--above or below water--is all about trapping air. That's why
neoprene foam works so well. Gas bubbles are permanently trapped inside the "closed
cells" of the wetsuit material.
Our tests have shown that other "innovations"--such as metal foils and fleece linings in
suits--do nothing to enhance insulation. However, some features can help the suit do its
job. They include: wrist, collar and ankle seals; sealing flaps behind zippers; pre-bent arms
and legs; and smooth inner coatings to minimize water flow inside the suit.
So What's This Going To Cost Me?
No doubt about it: scuba is a gear-intensive activity. But scuba gear is also built to last.
When properly cared for and regularly maintained, your first set of gear could conceivably
be your last. Here's a breakdown based on suggested retail prices of gear reviewed in the
pages of Rodale's Scuba Diving. Budget Moderate High-End
Mask $25 $70 $150
Fins $65 $100 $200
Snorkel $15 $30 $75
Booties/Gloves $30 $80 $120
Wetsuit $120 $300 $550
BC $300 $450 $750
Regulator $225 $400 $1,600
Computer $300 $500 $1,300
Total $1,080 $1,930 $4,745
Gear Buying Tips
Go Local. At RSD, we believe in supporting your local dive store for reasons of diver safety.
However, not every store carries every brand of gear. If you decide on a brand or model that
your favorite store doesn't have, ask them if they can order it for you. Don't feel obligated to
buy what a store carries in stock unless you're certain the substitution meets all your
criteria for a piece of gear.
Invest Wisely. Yes, owning your own gear requires a considerable investment. But you can
expect quality gear to last, literally, for years. You aren't buying running shoes or roller
blades that eventually wear out and have to be replaced. When properly cared for and
maintained, your gear should last as long as you want it to. Now that's a bargain.
When You Get It, Take Care of It
Scuba gear is designed to be rugged and durable. Most items will last you many years--if
you take care of them properly. Some top tips from old pros:
Immerse your gear in fresh, clean water after use. Do not spray.
Partially fill your BC with fresh water, slosh it around, then drain.
Allow each item to dry thoroughly before storing in a cool, dry and clean area.
Avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight, heat and chlorinated water.
Do not allow contact with petroleum products or other solvents.
Protect your gear from physical shock when transporting it, especially on airlines.
At least once per year (more if you dive frequently) have your BC, reg and computer serviced
by your dive store. The leading cause of equipment failure is lack of maintenance.
Do not allow moisture into the air intake of your regulator's first stage, and do not depress
the purge on your second stage unless the unit is pressurized.
Inspect each item of gear well before a planned dive trip so there is time for repairs. Do not
dive if your equipment is less than 100 percent reliable.
Dive Speak -- Gear
aluminum-80 The most common scuba cylinder, so named because it is supposed to hold
80 cubic feet of air. In actuality, it usually holds about 77.4 cubic feet.
annual The required yearly visual inspection for scuba tanks. Also, a similar checkup for
regulators.
BC Buoyancy compensator. Also known as a BCD, or buoyancy control device.
Boot Protective covering on the bottom of a tank.
Booties Footwear for divers.
Bottle Another word for scuba tank.
console A unit attached to a hose from the regulator first stage for holding and displaying
instruments, including dive computer, depth gauge and compass.
doubles Two tanks linked together for use on a single dive.
DPV Diver propulsion vehicle, an underwater scooter.
dump A valve used to deflate a BC.
farmer john Wetsuit pants that extend over the upper body and shoulders (similar to
overalls).
first stage The part of the regulator that attaches to the tank and reduces the pressure of the
air in the tank to an intermediate pressure.
free flow An unwanted loss of air from a regulator.
glow stick A chemical light stick usually attached to the tank valve during a night dive so a
diver can be seen in the dark by his buddy and other divers. Also called a cyalume stick.
hydro Short for "hydrostatic test." A pressure test for scuba tanks, performed in water.
Required for every scuba cylinder in the U.S. every five years.
lead The weights worn to offset a diver's positive buoyancy.
mil Short for millimeter, usually used in reference to wetsuit thickness (i.e., a three-mil suit).
octopus A backup or secondary regulator second stage.
o-ring A pliable ring that forms a high-pressure seal on tank valves. Also used on
underwater cameras and other equipment to provide a waterproof seal.
port An opening in the regulator first stage for hose attachment.
Primary The main regulator second stage, as opposed to the backup or octopus second
stage.
quick disconnect Any one of several different types of fittings that can be used to remove a
hose or strap quickly with one hand.
rebreather An underwater breathing unit that recycles a breathing gas, removing carbon
dioxide and adding oxygen.
second stage The part of the regulator at the end of the hose that includes the mouthpiece.
The second stage reduces the pressure in the hose to a breathable pressure.
shorty A one-piece wetsuit with short legs and short sleeves.
spg Submersible pressure gauge.
tube Snorkel.
Computers
Nobody enjoys working the dive tables, but they're an
invaluable tool for safe diving. Dive computers are an
even better tool for the same reason a laptop is better
than a slide rule.
What They Do - By constantly monitoring depth and
bottom time, dive computers automatically recalculate
your no-decompression status, giving you longer dive
times while still keeping you within a safe envelope of
no-decompression time. Computers can also monitor
your ascent rate and tank pressure, tell you when it's safe to fly, log your dives and much
more. That's why dive computers are almost as common as depth gauges these days.
What to Look For - User-friendliness. The most feature-packed dive computer does you no
good if you can't easily and quickly access the basic information you need during a dive:
depth, time, decompression status and tank pressure. Some models have both numeric
and graphic displays for at-a-glance information.
Mounting options are an important feature to consider and let you position computers on
your wrist, gauge console, hoses or attach them to BCs.
Some computers are conservative in their calculations, automatically building in safety
margins; others take you to the edge of decompression and trust you to build in your own
safety margins. Only RSD publishes a chart ranking the relative conservatism of dive
computers on the market today.
Before you buy, ask to see the owner's manual and check it out. Complete and
easy-to-understand instructions are important, especially on feature-packed machines.
Cost - $300 to $1,300.
Our Advice - Begin with an honest evaluation of your diving needs--do you plan to use
mixed gases someday to do decompression diving? Study the features of different
computers and choose the one that offers the mix of features you need at the best price.
Where Should You Buy Gear?
Scuba equipment can be purchased in dive stores, at other retail outlets, by mail order or
as used equipment from private parties. There are distinct advantages and disadvantages
to each.
Private party. Buying used gear from a private party may be the cheapest possible way to
go, but provides absolutely no guarantees. Unless you are extremely knowledgeable or an
equipment technician, you will not know if a regulator, for example, can even be serviced.
You will also not have any performance data. The seller's statement that the regulator
"breathes fine" and your breathing on it out of the water are both meaningless. We
recommend not buying used life-support equipment from private parties.
Nondive store retail outlets. Sporting goods and discount stores may have scuba gear for
sale. Some of these stores actually have scuba departments and should be considered
dive stores. However, most are simply retail outlets and cannot provide the service, support
and expertise that a dive store can. Other than price, there is no reason to buy at these
nondive store outlets. And even price may not be an advantage since name-brand gear can
often be purchased at dive stores at discount prices.
Mail order. Catalog buying is a popular and useful way to shop, particularly when some
products are not available locally or may be purchased through a catalog for significantly
less money (including shipping and handling charges).
But buying scuba gear through the mail is not like buying a sweater from a clothing catalog.
In particular, our concerns are these:
Diver life-support products should not be sold to unqualified buyers.
2 Dive gear should not be sold when operating incorrectly.
Gear should not be sold to a diver without regard to proper fit and function.
Little service or support is available by mail order, and gear that is not purchased locally
may not be able to be serviced locally and may have no warranty.
If cost is your compelling selection criterion, we suggest consulting RSD's "Best Buy" lists
for those products that offer the best performance for the price. The least expensive is not
necessarily the best buy.
Dive Stores. Retail dive stores have been the focal point of local dive support since
recreational diving became popular. Your local dive store can provide instruction, dive
travel, local dives, inspection and repair services, compressed air, rental equipment,
equipment advice and the opportunity to look at, feel, compare and test equipment before
purchase. In addition, the store can back up products immediately if necessary. Personal
contact is also an important part of a dive store's value. In short, a dive store is in a better
position than a mail-order dealer to provide the service and support you need and should
expect.
How A Wetsuit Works
A wetsuit keeps you warm in two ways:
Keeping Water Out. Any water that gets inside the suit is going to leak out again. When the
water is inside, it absorbs some of your body heat. When it leaves, it takes that heat with it.
So the first thing a wetsuit has to do is keep the cold ocean from flushing through it. A good
fit, one that feels equally snug everywhere, is critical, so the space the ocean wants to use
to flow along your skin is as small as possible.
Providing Insulation Against Heat Loss. A little science here: Solids and liquids conduct
heat well; gases do not. Air, for example, is about 20 times less conductive than water. As a
practical matter, good insulation--above or below water--is all about trapping air. That's why
neoprene foam works so well. Gas bubbles are permanently trapped inside the "closed
cells" of the wetsuit material.
Our tests have shown that other "innovations"--such as metal foils and fleece linings in
suits--do nothing to enhance insulation. However, some features can help the suit do its
job. They include: wrist, collar and ankle seals; sealing flaps behind zippers; pre-bent arms
and legs; and smooth inner coatings to minimize water flow inside the suit.
So What's This Going To Cost Me?
No doubt about it: scuba is a gear-intensive activity. But scuba gear is also built to last.
When properly cared for and regularly maintained, your first set of gear could conceivably
be your last. Here's a breakdown based on suggested retail prices of gear reviewed in the
pages of Rodale's Scuba Diving. Budget Moderate High-End
Mask $25 $70 $150
Fins $65 $100 $200
Snorkel $15 $30 $75
Booties/Gloves $30 $80 $120
Wetsuit $120 $300 $550
BC $300 $450 $750
Regulator $225 $400 $1,600
Computer $300 $500 $1,300
Total $1,080 $1,930 $4,745
Gear Buying Tips
Go Local. At RSD, we believe in supporting your local dive store for reasons of diver safety.
However, not every store carries every brand of gear. If you decide on a brand or model that
your favorite store doesn't have, ask them if they can order it for you. Don't feel obligated to
buy what a store carries in stock unless you're certain the substitution meets all your
criteria for a piece of gear.
Invest Wisely. Yes, owning your own gear requires a considerable investment. But you can
expect quality gear to last, literally, for years. You aren't buying running shoes or roller
blades that eventually wear out and have to be replaced. When properly cared for and
maintained, your gear should last as long as you want it to. Now that's a bargain.
When You Get It, Take Care of It
Scuba gear is designed to be rugged and durable. Most items will last you many years--if
you take care of them properly. Some top tips from old pros:
Immerse your gear in fresh, clean water after use. Do not spray.
Partially fill your BC with fresh water, slosh it around, then drain.
Allow each item to dry thoroughly before storing in a cool, dry and clean area.
Avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight, heat and chlorinated water.
Do not allow contact with petroleum products or other solvents.
Protect your gear from physical shock when transporting it, especially on airlines.
At least once per year (more if you dive frequently) have your BC, reg and computer serviced
by your dive store. The leading cause of equipment failure is lack of maintenance.
Do not allow moisture into the air intake of your regulator's first stage, and do not depress
the purge on your second stage unless the unit is pressurized.
Inspect each item of gear well before a planned dive trip so there is time for repairs. Do not
dive if your equipment is less than 100 percent reliable.
Dive Speak -- Gear
aluminum-80 The most common scuba cylinder, so named because it is supposed to hold
80 cubic feet of air. In actuality, it usually holds about 77.4 cubic feet.
annual The required yearly visual inspection for scuba tanks. Also, a similar checkup for
regulators.
BC Buoyancy compensator. Also known as a BCD, or buoyancy control device.
Boot Protective covering on the bottom of a tank.
Booties Footwear for divers.
Bottle Another word for scuba tank.
console A unit attached to a hose from the regulator first stage for holding and displaying
instruments, including dive computer, depth gauge and compass.
doubles Two tanks linked together for use on a single dive.
DPV Diver propulsion vehicle, an underwater scooter.
dump A valve used to deflate a BC.
farmer john Wetsuit pants that extend over the upper body and shoulders (similar to
overalls).
first stage The part of the regulator that attaches to the tank and reduces the pressure of the
air in the tank to an intermediate pressure.
free flow An unwanted loss of air from a regulator.
glow stick A chemical light stick usually attached to the tank valve during a night dive so a
diver can be seen in the dark by his buddy and other divers. Also called a cyalume stick.
hydro Short for "hydrostatic test." A pressure test for scuba tanks, performed in water.
Required for every scuba cylinder in the U.S. every five years.
lead The weights worn to offset a diver's positive buoyancy.
mil Short for millimeter, usually used in reference to wetsuit thickness (i.e., a three-mil suit).
octopus A backup or secondary regulator second stage.
o-ring A pliable ring that forms a high-pressure seal on tank valves. Also used on
underwater cameras and other equipment to provide a waterproof seal.
port An opening in the regulator first stage for hose attachment.
Primary The main regulator second stage, as opposed to the backup or octopus second
stage.
quick disconnect Any one of several different types of fittings that can be used to remove a
hose or strap quickly with one hand.
rebreather An underwater breathing unit that recycles a breathing gas, removing carbon
dioxide and adding oxygen.
second stage The part of the regulator at the end of the hose that includes the mouthpiece.
The second stage reduces the pressure in the hose to a breathable pressure.
shorty A one-piece wetsuit with short legs and short sleeves.
spg Submersible pressure gauge.
tube Snorkel.
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